Divinity and Tranquility in Dakhineswar Kali Bari

Words Aura | Paramita Chakraborty
10 min readNov 23, 2020

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“My deep faith in you (Maa Bhavatarini) and Shiva compelled me to open my heart on the divine land.”

If you want to know about the divine Dakhineswar Kali Bari then you need to know about Rani Rashmoni and Ramkrishna Paramhansa.

Rani Rashmoni Das

Rani Rashmoni, not just a name but an epitome of women empowerment in the 19 century. Rani, from her childhood days, was an enthusiast and a keen devotee of Raghuveer. She was born in a poor peasant family and from her childhood days, she was against social evils and other atrocities done in the name of God by the nobility. Young Rani had taken strides towards it. After her marriage with Babu Rajchandra Das (a wealthy zamindar), she along with her husband led the battle against superstition and strongly protested- Sati pratha, sacrificing of animals and many other irrational rituals which were like a black hole in the custom of Hinduism.

“Whenever she felt- she was trapped and lost- her idol, her Lord Raghuveer turned to be her saviour and the pathfinder.”

Mr Das had a liberal mindset and was a keen believer of Raja Ram Mohan Roy. Like his wife, he was also against baseless customs and practices, so he wholeheartedly supported his wife in the battle with superstition. Babu Rajchandra Das believed in the equality of women. According to him, women must have the right to read and write. So, he educated his wife and involved her in his zamindari and business. His ideologies and extreme support were blessings for Rani Rashmoni, in every phase of her life she proved herself as an efficient wife and an able social worker.

Though she was married in an affluent family of Bengal Presidency, she had to face many criticisms for her modern outlook in social reform. After her husband’s demise, she took hold of her husband’s business and zamindari. For her bold step, she faced the criticism of patriarchal society, but no denunciation discouraged her grit determination and very proficiently she took the business into the peak. Her two sons- in law- Ramchandra Ata, husband of the elder daughter, Padmani and Mathurmohan Biswas husband of Jagadamba helped her a lot in her journey.

Due to her generosity, courage and patronage to needy people, she was known as Rani Ma. She had many followers, not only Indian scholars, but the British officers also respected her virtues. She along with Ishwar Chandara Vidyasagar started the noble reform of widow remarriage, which later became the law. She did many things for public welfare- constructed roads, houses, bathing ghats, temples, and many more. She founded the Dakshineswar Kali Temple in the command of Ma Bhavtarini. It is said that Ma Bhavtarini came in her dream and asked her to build a temple for her.

Ramakrishna Paramhansa

“The winds of grace are blowing all the time. You have only to raise your sail.”

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Ramakrishna Paramhansa

Ramakrishna Paramhansa was the man of benevolent spirit and the ardent bhakt of Raghuveer (later became Kali bhakt). Some believed the saint was an incarnation and some due to his extreme devotion towards the idol had an opinion he was the divine son of Ma Bhavtarini- who was born to give new direction, new ideologies to the society;

joto mauth, toto poth

“more ideologies, more paths”

Paramhansa was the harbinger of modern tenet. He was against the feckless orthodox commandment of the nobility, he defied casteism and treated all human beings equally as he believed all living creatures are children of Ma Bhavtarini.

The glorified soul was born on 18 February 1836, in the poor brahmin family at Kamarpukur village, in Bengal Presidency, as Gadadhar Chattopadhyay. Since his childhood, he experienced sheer joy in divinity. Paramhansa was the youngest and beloved child of his father, with love his father called him ‘Ramakrishna Babu’. He came to Kolkata when his eldest brother Ramkumar was appointed as head priest of Dakhineswar Kali temple in the year 1855. In the temple Nephew, Hriday and Godadhar became the assistance of Ramkumar. After Ramkumar’s demise, Rani Rashmoni appointed Godadhar as the head priest.

Devotion, benevolence, kindness in his heart made him conspicuous which like a magnet attracted many devotees to the divine temple to seek the blessings of Ma Bhavtarani and have a glance of Paramhansa. Though he had many Guru’s including Totapuri, but it is said that Ma Bhavatarini through her leela’s taught him the essence of life. His spirituality and mysticism enthralled Narendra Nath Dutta, who later became his chief disciple and represented Hinduism in Chicago world conference as Swami Vivekananda.

Not only Hindu’s, but people from other religions also adored him and became his disciples.

Dakhineswar Kali Bari

The name itself reveals the sanctity of the place and residence of Ma Bhavatarini Kali form of ‘Adi Shakti’. The divine temple is located at Dakshineswar suburban in North 24 Pargana district of West Bengal. The history of the temple goes back to the time of Rani Rashmoni.

History

There were two main reasons for Rani Rashmoni for building the Dakshineswar Kali Temple. First reason- it was the earnest desire of Babu Rajchandra Das to build a Kali temple, but he died of unfulfilling desire. The second reason was the dream. Rani Ma, to express her devotion at the feet of Divine Mother, decided to go to pilgrim at Varanasi along with her servants with 24 boats. It is said that at the same night due to Rani Rashmoni’s goodness, unselfishness and extreme devotion, Ma Bhavtarini came in her dream and commanded her to build a place for her living;

“There is no need to go to Banaras. Install my statue in a beautiful temple on the banks of the Ganges river and arrange for my worship there. Then I shall manifest myself in the image and accept worship at the place.”

Finding a suitable place for the temple was not that easy for the wealthy lady. Rani Rashmoni herself had gone to many places in search of land. Finally, after many struggles and with the indication of Goddess, Rani Ma found that place in Dakshineswar village. Ramkumar the elder brother of Ramakrishna Paramhansa with his sadhana affirmed the divinity of that place. At that time that area was covered with dense forest.

The main struggle of constructing the temple started from here. After the survey, it was found that many years before there was a Shiv temple in the bank of Ganges, but the temple could not be constructed there because of the three owners of the land. The first owner was the orthodox Brahmin landlord who after an uphill battle gave the eastern side of his land to Rani Ma. The second land was burial ground of Muslim known as Saheban Bagicha the biggest obstacle, however, as for tantra sadhana of Shakti, that place was befitted so temple can be constructed. Another land was of Englishman Jake Hastie, Rani Ma purchased 20 acres of land from Mr Hastie.

Notwithstanding, her problem did not stop here. The orthodox Brahmanical society was a big hindrance in the path of constructing the temple. According to their decretal, ‘vidhan’ Rani Rashmoni was a widower and belonged to lower caste kaivarta, so she cannot build a temple. At those days widows were considered as inauspicious for the family and the society so they were debarred from entering the temple and other auspicious place. During that time Ramkumar Chottopadhya, from the Brahmin clan came as a saviour and through his decretal helped Rani Ma to construct a temple in Dakshineswar.

Though the temple received opposition of orthodox brahmins who decided to boycott the temple ceremony. However, because of Goddess blessings in the year 1855, the temple was fully built. On 31 May in the same year after snana yatra under the guidance of Ramkumar, the idol was installed in the temple as Sri Sri Jagadishwari Mahakali. More than 1 lakh brahmins across the country glorified the auspicious occasion.

Architecture and Compound

It took 9 years to complete the temple from 1847–1855, approx 9 lakh rupees was spent. The temple was constructed in Bengal navratna architecture- 9 spines rising up to 100 feet.

  • The three-storeyed holy shrine is south facing and is placed in the middle of a huge courtyard.
  • The courtyard is surrounded by 12 identical Jyotirlinga temples facing east and by a Radha Krishna temple in North East of the temple complex.
  • The courtyard also comprises a dancing hall called Nat Mandir where religious songs and other religious discourses were conducted.
  • The three-storeyed temple is the sanctum, garva griha of Ma Bhavatarini. The captivating divine idol (Ma Kali) is installed here.
  • Idol- Ma Bhavatarini adorned with gold jewellery is standing on the chest of a supine Shiva, resting on a thousand-petaled lotus throne made up of silver metal.
  • Panchavati, it is very near to the temple. The place is called Panchvati because of 5 trees Banyan, Peepal, Neem, Gooseberry and Woodapple under which Ramkrishna Paramhansa performed his sadhanas and attained knowledge.

Visiting hours

  • October to March-

Morning- 06:00am to 12:30pm

Evening- 03:00pm to 08:30pm

  • April to September

Morning-06:00am to 12:30pm

Evening- 03:00pm to 09:00pm

Places to visit near Dakshineswar

  • Adya peeth- It is a pilgrim centre of Hindu, where Ma Adya’s asth dhatu (8 metals) idol has been installed. According to the history of the temple, ‘Ma Adya’ came in the dream of Sree Annada Thakur and asked him to build the temple to teach humans the dictums of love and idealism.
  • Nahabat Khana — Ma Saradamoni wife of Ramakrishna Paramhansa resided here. Her followers offer daily prayers for her.
  • Gaji Tala- Shri Ramkrishna explored Islam in Gaji Tala.
  • Belur Math- Swami Vivekananda, the chief disciple of Sri Ramkrishna Paramhansa founded Belur Math. The divine place is situated on the east bank of river Ganga (Hooghly River) One can easily reach Belur Math both from waterways and roadways. The steamer ride is thrilling especially in the evening time during the ride the cool breeze of Ganges purifies the soul.

Mode of Transport

  • Waterways- One can easily board a steamer from Howrah ferry ghat. Though it is due to upstream the ride is time-consuming but trust me you will love the ride.
  • Roadways- Frequent bus services are available, even one can take a personal vehicle or take OLA UBER ride.
  • Railways- Local train services can be avail from Sealdah, Howrah, Dumdum and Dankuni stations.
  • Metro Train- Under construction.

The place is impeccably breathtaking. The one who once visits the place falls in love with the ambience. It is situated on the banks of Holy Ganges.

In the entrance, a huge statue of Swami Vivekananda has been placed. Two bathing ghats and two changing rooms are made outside of the temple premises for Ganga snan of the pilgrims. Security and Management of the temple are worth mentioning. Security is very strict no one is allowed to take their belongings including mobile phones inside the temple premises, separate rooms are there for keeping shoes and other belongings. Management is well organised, the temple premises is well maintained.

Last but not the least the newly constructed skywalk by the State Government made the place more alluring and more happening.

“The place is so soothing and healing that sitting on the bank of Ganges and taking Ma Bhavatarini’s name will give peace to your heart and if you have any problem you will surely get the solution.”

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Words Aura | Paramita Chakraborty

Deeply inclined towards writing and it is my goal to combine my range of knowledge with my ability to be a compassionate, enthusiastic, intelligent writer.